Preparation
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SPAWNING MATERIALS & THE SPAWNING POND
STAGES OF SPAWNING & DEVELOPMENT OF THE EMBRYO

CARE OF THE FRY

CULLING, TIPS ON CULLING & DEFORMITIES

PREPARING YOUR BREEDING STOCK
If you have room, it is preferable to separate your breeding females from the main pond to a second  pond with the same main pond water running through it. Even if you only have one brood female add one or two more females for company as she will loose condition being alone. Never lift a brood female out of the water using a net. Slip her into a plastic bag to move her, this way she remains buoyant in water. If you have enough room you can also keep the breeding males in another pond. The reason for isolating the females is one morning after rain you may find that the horny males will pack rape her and any other females that are full of eggs. To bring a female into condition for breeding I use soft pellets, brown bread and vegemite and tiger worms, but no carbohydrates like pasta, rice etc. For males - tiger worms, brown bread and vegemite, pasta, rice and cereals like Nutri-Grain.
 
PREPARING THE RAISING POND
This can be done in two ways:- - Growing green water and Daphnia in the same pond, and/or - producing Daphnia and green water in separate ponds. All this needs to be done 2 to 3 weeks before you start breeding depending on location of the pond as it needs full sun. After the fry have hatched and consumed their egg sack, they will naturally start looking for food. This will be something small like micro-organisms which are found in green water (Infusoria), which is the bottom of the food chain. As the fry grow they look for more substantial food. This includes Daphnia (water fleas) of various sizes. Daphnia also feed on the Infusoria. I use two containers for this, one - the hatching pond is cleaned and dried for a few days and then refilled with clean tap water to a depth of 30 cm (do not use the filter). (The fry cannot survive the pressure created by water over this depth). Let it age and add 1 teaspoon per 450 lts of complete garden fertilzer and let the water go green. At the same time I fill some 300lt containers with pond water and add some chook poo and dry, boiled hay. This will start my water fleas growing which are a good source of live, natural food for fry. Check and adjust your pH to as close to neutral as possible. And cover the pond from nasties!
 
RAISING DAPHNIA (WATER FLEAS) 
 You cannot have too many Daphnia as the fry will feed on them for months.
It is best to cultivate Daphnia in a tank or pond with a large surface area in full sun and covered with fly mesh or shade cloth. Make sure they have an air supply, they are heavy users of oxygen.
If you see the daphnia turn red then this is a sign that there is not enough oxygen in the water. Either add an extra air stone or thin them down BUT do not take more than 1/2 the stock.
If you have some or you get a bag of daphnia from a koi mate, they can survive over winter. So do not empty out the tank completely as the eggs will be on the bottom.
To start a culture, throughly clean your container, add treated or fresh water and let age as chlorine will kill them - as will other koi medications! Add 1 level teaspoon of complete garden fertiliser per 450 lts and let the water go green. To aid this you can boil some hay or hand cut grass, dried and boiled when cold add the water you boiled and the hay (best put in a stocking or alike) to the tank.
Another way is to put a handfull of chook poo per 300 lts in a stocking as well as the boiled hay and left alone, the water will go green. With a little luck, daphnia will start growing or you can add some of your own.
As the infusoria starts the daphnia will eat them and multiply. You can cull them down for the fry and keep the culture going for weeks with added green water, fry powder and/or brewers yeast. If you have too many fleas at one time bag them and put in the freezer for later.
Adjust your water pH to between 7.8 and 8.4.

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